Since then, Vietnam has been etched on my imaginary map as a place I must go to if only for its yummy gustatory delights. After numerous places that I've been to, I finally get to go to Vietnam-- you can just imagine all the anticipation building up in my belly. I, that oily-faced teen, being hypnotized by a steamy bowl of Pho on television is now going to that place where that bowl came from. Dreams do come true.
PHO
Pho Bho (Pho with Beef) at Pho 2000. |
Like an ironic Christian teen who abstains from sex until she gets married and do it on her wedding night, I avoided eating Pho here in Manila and wherever I went, for that matter, until I get to taste it on the motherland itself. I don't know why exactly have I put such veneration on that steamy broth of noodles to wait this long-- I've eaten at Vietnamese restaurants in Manila and every time my eyes landed on the Pho, I just go to the next item automatically, like that Pho never existed at all. My self-control is not even in the sense that I am consciously preventing myself, but it's the one of confidence and faith that something much better is for me. Sure, you say, that is all romantic and sweet but was it worth it? Yes, imaginary reader, it was worth it (and I hope we are still talking about Pho here).
WHERE TO GET IT:
Make like a US President and eat at Pho 2000 (1-3 D Phan Chu Trinh, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Near Ben Tanh Market). Former US President Bill Clinton had a Pho here and since then the restaurant's slogan has been 'Pho for the President'. For sure there are other better Pho restaurants out in the city but I don't know, this is the first one I've ever tried and I must say it is rather good; I mean, I got nothing to compare it to but it sure tasted as what I imagined it to be. It's nourishing and delicious and everything seemed fresh and done right. And it costs about $1.50! How could that not be other than perfect?
Bánh mì
Just about right. The Bahn Mi in all its glory. (Photo via Poketo.com) |
WHERE TO GET IT:
You couldn't walk into the streets of Ho Chi minh without seeing carts selling Banh Mi on every corner. This just proves the fact that the Vietnamese themselves cannot miss these sandwiches on their every day so why should you?
Fresh Spring Rolls (gỏi cuốn)
Roll up on these. (Taken with instagram) |
Is it possible to have enough spring rolls? Is it? No, I don't think so. These harmless looking things have so much flavor in them, like the bountifulness of springtime is all rolled into delicately thin rice papers-- you can definitely have more. Almost all Vietnamese eateries and restaurants serve this and the quality is almost the same whether its a high-end restaurant or an open-air eatery on the streets: vermicelli noodles, shrimps, lettuce and leeks rolled up and ready for you to get high on.
Ca Phe Sua Da
I am not a coffee drinker. Spill a drop of caffeine on my drink and it's guaranteed to make me annoyingly energetic for a good 24 hours. Or maybe I am exaggerating. I do eat coffee flavored candies and once in a while I can sip on a mocha frappuccino and not palpitate crazily. As you can see, I like my coffee tempered with sweetness not so much unlike most people, which probably is why Starbucks coffee mixes are popular almost anywhere in the world. Almost anywhere yes, but not in Vietnam where a glass of creamy yet strong coffee filled with ice to the brim is the cafe du jour. They call it Ca Phe Sua Da and no whipped cream with choco sprinkles and bells and whistles is necessary. It's that good.
WHERE TO GET IT:
Almost anywhere that is a cafe or a patisserie or really, anywhere they serve food will find you a ca phe sua da listed on their menu. We had ours at Cafe Kem-- an ice cream shop in the corner of Pasteur St. Of course the Ca Phe Sua Da was good (but their service needs a little bit of fixing. They charge extra for a shot of condensed milk?!) The drink is usually served in a way that you have to DIY it. I will explain the process on a later post but my photo above pretty much gives you an idea how it looks like: a slow-drip coffee filter on top of a cup, a glass filled with ice and a shot of condensed milk. It's not exactly instant but that is part of the beauty of it-- you chat with your friends or people-watch for a while during the dripping process. After all, it is called "coffee break", isn't it?
And while we're at it, you will notice that most cafes in Saigon have their tables outside facing the streets, promoting people-watching and languid voyeurism of life. Not so much unlike how it is in Paris. Not that I've been there but...
French Pastries
I am literally playing "La Vie En Rose" on my PC as I am wiriting this topic. I don't know why, but pretty little pastries of french origin will always have an effect on me that I could be in France at that moment. This is especially true when macarons are involved-- oh those dainty and delicate sweet things! Suddenly you're Marie Antoinette and you're having your cake-- and eating it too.
WHERE TO GET IT:
Our table spread at Une Journee A Paris (yes, we learned to do table spreads!) |
FOR THE LOVE OF ALL THAT IS GOOD AND YUMMY, DO NOT MISS THESE TWO RESTAURANTS:
Com Nieu Sai gon
19 Tu Xuong Street, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City
Phone: 08 3932 2799
Photo via iamgourmand.wordpress.com |
Battered shrimp pancakes with crispy rice. |
I know this one: FRESH SPRING ROLLS! |
A terribly photographed but actually mouth-watering spareribs cooked in clay pot. |
The Pièce de résistance: Com Dap. |
We also had a couple other things like a soup and a fried rice and a strange-sounding drink served in a coconut that tasted like grass. They will now remain forever unnamed on this post because I have a "photographic memory" (meaning I forget things I didn't photograph). I will say this, though: you must order the Com Dap. Not only is it unexpectedly good, but it is entertaining as well. How? Initially served in a clay pot, a server will smash the pot, then the rice-- coming out surprisingly intact and piping hot, will be thrown in the air over your head and be caught by someone on the other end of your table with a clean plate on his hand. Then they will put scallions and sesame seeds and saucy goodness on it and serve it to you. It's the most amazing thing, really. You. Should. Try. It.
Anthony Bourdain's words may have led us there and we cannot complain-- the food is amazing, everything is delicious. But to us, it was more legit when a hotel staff, all prim and proper, suddenly shrieked in delight when she learned that we ate there. We did good.
Le Jardin
31 Thai Van Lung, Dist. 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam (Inside IDECAF)
Phone: (84-8) 3825 8465
(Not open on Sundays)
Profiteroles, steak, Crème brûlée, salmon-- just our usual fare. :) |
A lot of travel blogs have placed Le Jardin as one of Ho Chi Minh's best kept secrets-- and quite literally so- the French Restaurant and bistro is tucked away behind the bushes of the garden inside The IDECAF building. There are no signs along the street and most people who are not in the know, obviously hasn't heard of it. So here's the 411: for good, uncomplicated and surprisingly inexpensive french food (the steaks only go for around VND150,000!) go to Le Jardin. We came in at lunch and found lots of French expats chatting in their mother tongue and sipping red wine with their medium rare rump steak. Quite frankly, we felt a little out of place when we entered but their pleasant service assured us that we were more than welcome to be there. P and T had steaks (the Tenderloin Steak in Red Wine sauce- Medium Rare was really delicious) and I had a Salmon with thyme cream sauce (also good). We also felt a bit grown-up, having steaks and salmons for lunch and as such we accompanied them with Rosé (order it on a carafe- 25ml or 75ml, if a bottle will seem expensive.) They also serve a mean and winning Crème brûlée and decadent Profiteroles with a twist: vanilla ice cream instead of the usual pastry cream, sandwiched between puffy pastry and drizzled with chocolate syrup. All this for how much? about VND740,000 or Php1,500! A delicious meal on the fancier side and yet doesn't burn a hole in your pocket? Oui, s'il vous plaît!
*****
Honestly, this doesn't cover even half of what I am planning to eat in Vietnam; but because I am all for delayed gratification and I studied the Law of Diminishing Returns (I brag, I know), I will devour the others on my list on my next trip. And of course there's going to be a next trip because while I could never be a MTV VJ nor could I cook 30-minute meals (How do you do it, Rachel Ray?) nor could "Oh Tokyo" be ever resurrected again (sob!), in my perfectly imperfect world, I get to slurp the broth of a honest to goodness Pho in central Saigon and everything is alright.-- K
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